| After Application |
Washed & Scrubbed |
Product Used |
Comments |
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Lipton Tea |
This is
the method I used. This method was reported to be permanent after 3
months, but it wasn't. Thinking that I had somehow done something wrong, I
wrote to Sharon Peters.
Click here to read what she had to
say. Thank you Sharon!!! |
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No Change |

Bullseye Frit |
I dipped the hot bead into the powder and then melted it
in the flame 3 times. I didn't think much of this
one till after I etched it. The etched side is the closest I came to the
look of tea staining. If a lighter shade is wanted, just dip and heat
fewer times.
Etching was done as the last step. If you like this one, you have the
owner of Forestheart Studio to
thank for coming up with it. |
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Paradise Paint Brown |
Deborah at Dread Designs was
kind enough to let us use this guy. Thanks! |
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No Change |

"1 SHOT"® Lettering Enamel |
This oil based opaque
enamel has excellent coverage on glass. It needs 30 days or so to
reach it's maximum hardness. |
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No Change |
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- Pebeo Vitrea 160
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This translucent paint needs
to be dried in the oven at 325º F for
40 min. |
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No Change |
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- Delta PermEnamel
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Top half is etched. Requires
preconditioning and after application of paint, 1 week before washing. |
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No Change |
- Effetre Amber Frit Trial 1
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I decided to play around a bit and make my own powder from Moretti Dk.
Topaz rods. I wasn't very pleased with the results - the look is too
granular. Perhaps I'll regrind it and try again later or perhaps grind up a lighter colored rod. |
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No Change |
Effetre Amber Frit Trial 2 |
I reground the powder directly above into a finer powder and tried it
again. I still don't care for the way it turned out. Of course, if you're
going for the look of mud, this may be just what you're looking for. Next
I'll try a lighter color of Moretti Topaz. I didn't even bother to etch
this one. |
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No Change |
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- Effetre Amber Frit Trial 3
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Decided to buy the lighter
frit/powder instead of making my own. I had to heat the bead so much
to melt in the frit that I lost all the detail in the cat face. As above,
I didn't bother to etch this one. |
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- Top half is Minwax Wood Finish
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- Bottom half is Tandy's Leather Glow
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Minwax Wood Finish Touch-up Marker |
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- Rub & Buff
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Painters Metallic Marker |
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- Kiwi Paste Shoe Polish
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- Kiwi Cream Shoe Polish
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Fingernail Polish |
This was the only Nail
polish I could find that looked dark brown. As you can see, looks can be
deceiving. |
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No Change |
Sculpey III |
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- Pearl-Ex
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Etching was done as the last
step. |
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No Change |
Thompson Enamel |
Etching was done as the last
step. |
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No Change |
Copper Ruby Reduction Frit Powder  |
Etching was done as the last
step. The frit was not reduced. |
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Gallery Glass Window Color |
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Liquitex Concentrated Artist Color - Acrylic
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Sharpie Gold Marker |
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- Testors Model Paint Enamel
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Painters Enamel Marker
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Folgers Coffee |
Treated this one exactly
like the Tea. |
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PaperMate Permanent Marker |
This bead broke and the
darkest area on the washed bead is where the ink stuck to the glue. |
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Rit Fabric Dye |
The color washed away as soon
as it hit the water. This bead also broke the only color that remained was
what was stuck to the glue. |
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Walnut Ink |
Ink does not want to stick to
the unetched side. If you click on the picture to view the larger image,
you can see areas on the right side where the ink pulled away. As
predicted, the color washed away as soon as it hit the water. |
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Sharpie Brown Marker |
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Liquid Leaf |
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Easter Egg Dye |
The color washed away as soon
as it hit the water. |
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Embossing
Powder |
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- Higgins Permanent Black Ink
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No Change |
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- Duncan Ceramic Glaze
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The glaze should have turned
out the color of the inside of a bean pot. The dark areas of the bead show about the best you
can do with a ceramic glaze. The temperature required for
the glaze is higher than the melting temperature of the base glass.
Etching was done as the last step. |